Coromandel Quest

March 2010

31 March 2010  Te Kouma Bay, Coromandel Peninsula  Exactly one year after our arrival in Fatu Hiva, Coromandel Quest dropped anchor in the Te Kouma inlet on the Coromandel Peninsula.  Our first night there was very quiet, with just ourselves and two motorboats in the bay.  On the following night, however, we counted 95!  And those were just the ones we could see, not those in the other little coves.  Perhaps the Easter weekend wasn't the best time to hope for an isolated anchorage.  However, everyone was remarkably quiet, so it seemed as if we were alone.

This is a beautiful anchorage, with some short but pretty walks over the hill to the hamlet of Te Kouma, from where one can overlook the huge expanse of Coromandel Harbour and the offshore islands.

Te Kouma

25-30 March 2010  Auckland  The few days we had in Auckland seemed to fly by, and we seemed to cram an awful lot into just a few days.  Auckland has a stunning skyline, dominated by SkyTower, a communications tower which looks unfortunately like the aggressive end of a hypodermic syringe.  Our main reason for visiting Auckland with Coromandel was to get the liferaft serviced, and we were fortunate that David at Wilco Marine promised to get it done over the weekend.  

It was really good to catch up with some friends, too.  Geoff, Geraldine and Blue Dawn were in Hobson West, so we visited them for lunch, and whilst Andy and Geoff were discussing electrics, Gerladine and I visited the Auckland Art Gallery; a crashing disappointment:  "installation" art is not my cup of tea at all and we both thought it a waste of $7.  The Auckland Museum, however, with its wonderful display of Polynesian artefacts - tapa cloth, tivaevae, pandanus mats, waka and other such items - was a real treat.  We also spent some time at the Maritime Museum, with its fascinating history of seafaring in New Zealand, and a detailed history of the Kiwis' success in the America's Cup.  There was also a gallery devoted to the life and achievements of Sir Peter Blake, New Zealand's finest yachtsman, sadly shot by pirates off the mouth of the Amazon.

On another day, Vincent Reidy and his friend Delwyn, who we had met on Vincent's yacht Moonglow in Tonga, picked us up and drove us to some of the sights around Auckland: Mount Eden, the Savage Memorial, the beachfront communities on the south of the Tamaki Strait, Delwyn's house, where she gave us some fejoa fruit, a lovely little Italian delicatessen (where I spent a fortune!) then lunch at an elegant pavement café: a lovely day.

So Auckland was a whirl of activity and the good news was that we now have a certificate for the liferaft for another year.  We were also able to visit the Australian Consulate-General to get our electronic visas for visiting there later this year, a painless process which didn't cost anything, much to our surprise and delight.

Auckland Skyline

Andy, Delwyn, Vincent and Me on Mount Eden

Westhaven Sunset

20 March 2010  Marsden Cove to Omaha Cove  Having sold the car the  previous day, and although we'd intended an early start, it was 1000 before we got away from Marsden Cove.  The forecast had promised up to 20 knots, but the wind seldom got above 10, so we changed our passage plan and headed for Omaha Cove, about 25 miles away, rather than Bon Accord on Kawau at 35 miles.  In the event, it was a lovely start to our New Zealand cruising, although Andy had really wanted to try out his "new" spinnaker, not an easy thing to do when you're beating to windward.

We made it to Omaha Cove by about 1800, dropping the anchor just in time to have a quiet sundowner-with-supper before the darkness closed in.  Omaha Cove was quite pretty, steep to and thickly wooded with podocarps, but the coming and going of fishing boats and motorboats marred the stillness of the night, and Coromandel rocked gently for most of the night.

21 March 2010  Omaha Cove to Bon Accord Bay, Kawau  Again Andy wanted to get away early, so by 0900 we were ready to raise the anchor - and what a difference the new windlass motor has made.  It came up remarkably quickly, much faster than the old one.

It was barely 12 miles from Omaha Cove to Bon Accord Bay on the west side of the island of Kawau, and again we had very gentle winds so ghosted along. Andy was pleased with his new main doing 4 knots in 6 knots apparent wind, catching a catamaran ahead of us before tacking up the bay. I was able to do some of the echo quilting on Araña de Nazca, my January 2008 Journal Quilt - well, better late than never.  Bon Accord is a very deep inlet on the west side of Kawau, and shelter can be found in there from most wind directions.  We had intended to anchor in Mansion House Bay, but it was packed with yachts and motorboats, so we carried on to Schoolhouse Bay on the south side of the inlet.  A short while later we were joined by our Swedish/Hungarian friends, Agnes and Bertil, together with Mae and Chris, on their Najad 39 Panacea.  Agnes had told us that whilst she was doing a transit of the Panama Canal on another yacht, Bertil had had supper with a friend of ours Jeanne Socrates on board her Najad Nereida, which Jeanne sadly lost on the Mexican coast just 60 miles short of her solo circumnavigation. What a small world the sailing community is!

22 March 2010 Bon Accord  This morning, after Andy had given the propellor and hull a quick scrub and having listened to a weather forecast, we moved from the south side of the bay to the opposite side as the wind was forecast to go from south west to north and to increase to 20-25 knots.  About 10 minutes after we'd anchored, Panacea followed, and that evening we all met up in the Kawau Yacht Club for delicious seafood suppers.  Goodness knows what we talked about, but the evening passed very quickly,

The only sour notes about the day were that first Andy lost his best lure and the anchor light stopped working, so I put the tricolour on instead: better that than nothing in such a small anchorage with so many buzzing motorboats - and such a dark night with a navy hull.

23 March 2010  Bon Accord  We spent the morning trying to get the anchor light working again, Andy cursing about the people who had designed a tricolour light fitting that didn't fit a standard bulb, so that he had to go up the mast three times adjusting the terminals on the bulb until he thought it was going to work. The original tricolour was stolen from the mast in Whangarei, whilst stored with a firm that claimed to do rigging and mast storage, and who had laughed when they heard that the tricolour had been  stolen the morning the mast was due to go back in. This has coloured Andy's opinion of New Zealand and it has gone down hill since; it will be a relief to leave here, as he no longer has a particularly high opinion of kiwis.  So we'll be away as soon as the cyclone season is over and we've had the liferaft serviced.

Once the wind got up the anchorage became rather roly, so I got the solar-powered light ready to use instead.  In the meantime, we bade farewell to Panacea - they were going to Gulf Harbour for the night before going on to Auckland the following day.

24 March 2010  Bon Accord to Auckland  Well the forecast was maddeningly right today.  After a slow start, during which we ran south dodging the pladdys which rim Kawau Bay, the wind picked up first to 20, then 25, then gusting 35 knots, so we finally made it into Waitemata Harbour with just a scrap of genoa, surrounded by whitecaps.  With the wind gusting out of the west, we butted our way up to Westhaven Marina, where we discovered that the lady to whom I had spoken didn't know port from starboard and directed us quite the wrong way.  With winds gusting from 20 to 30 knots, it was not a good time to be poking about a marina trying to find one's allotted berth!  Still the view of Auckland's waterfront was well worth the ride.

Omaha Cove

Smeltinghouse Cove

Dredger in Bon Accord Bay

Bye-bye Panacea

Motoring towards Auckland

David inflating the Avon liferaft with Andy looking on

17 March 2010  Happy St Patrick's Day  We've just sold the car, and as soon as we've got the cash in our hot little hands we'll be away from Marsden Cove once we've done a big shop, paid the bill and have a favourable weather window.  Take a look at the Journal Quilts page, which has been updated with my latest artistic endeavours.
15 March 2010  The March meeting of the Whangarei Patchworkers' and Quilters' Club was held last Saturday and it's the last I'll be able to attend as we'll hopefully be away from here next week and off to Great Barrier Island.  It was lovely to see Sandy Robinson's finished quilt; I had admired the blocks at my first meeting, when I also took a photo of Sandy wearing a shirt from which I drew the design for the November Journal Quilt, Koru.  The finished quilt, though, was stunning, with the intricate curved piecing.

I also learned that the lady who had hand-dyed the fabric I had used for Whangarei Ferns was Robin Halverson.  Robin does a lot of her own dyeing, but also has the most marvelous creative talent.  the lower photo is of Marie, Lynne and Margie who have all been great to know: Lynne lent me her sewing machine, whilst Margie showed my a fantastic fabric shop in Whangarei and Marie came to see Andy and me on Coromandel at the same time as Jan and Marian from Avanta, who had just returned from Holland.

In the meantime Andy has been concentrating on selling the car; now that we're going sailing again, it is superfluous to requirements, although it has been very useful since we've been here.

So we have a new bimini, new covers for the water and diesel containers, a new cover for Hydi, new bags for the halyards and I've made a bag to keep my pegs in - much nicer that a polybag.  The pilot berth has been contained behind a fabric screen, the sheets have been cut to the shape of the forepeak, the pillows have new inner covers and we think that both we and Coromandel are ready for a few more sailing adventures.  We did some stocking up in Whangarei on Saturday and will do a little more over the next couple of days

Sandy Robinson's Quilt

Marie, Lynne and Margie

12 March 2010  Today I pieced a patch for Coromandel's new mast cover.  The old one had become very worn, thanks to both of us using it for support when on passage, and was both frayed and torn, in addition to being bleached by the sun.  I've pieced this one from a cotton tea towel I bought in Howick, south east of Auckland.  It shows some of the things we've seen since we've been in New Zealand.  At the top is Mount Taranaki, then come a White Heron and the geyser at Rotorua.  Under that are pictures of a clematis, a pohutukawa and a kiwi, whilst a tui sits along the bottom.  Having pieced it all together - I had cut up the original tea towel - I simply appliquéd it onto the existing cover.  Hopefully it will last for a year or more.

Andy would like me to make one that looks like climbing flowers, so that will be the project for the next few months, when I'm not making Journal Quilts.